Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Dont mention the war



So you can't escape WW2 while visiting Germany.  Just before we left Nuremberg we stopped in at the documentation centre covering the Nazi history.  It is located in the never completed Congress building which is the largest example of Nazi architecture in existence.  All the rooms are basic brick and concrete which adds to the experience.  Quite interesting but if you already know the history there is not much new there.
 We also visited the Zeppelin field where they held the famous Nuremberg rallies.  The area which once held 200,000 people is now run down and includes some soccer fields.  Still, with some imagination, you can stand where Hitler stood and envision the spectacle.  I was tempted by Poland but thought better of it.  Photos of the current stands and what it looked like at its peak below.


The US army took exception to the swastika on the top of the main structure so had a "blow up the swastika" party in 1945.  The wings and various other bits have been removed over time for safety reasons.

And so to Augsburg.  Some serious roadworks had us driving around backstreets for at least 30 minutes but we finally got to the hotel and then to the markets.  The whole area is car free with lots of little streets and plazas and, just for xmas, lots of little stalls.
 3 times a week during xmas there are 20 "angels" which perform from windows in the Rathaus (town hall).  Very christmas and very popular with the crowd (including Nanna and Aunty Jan).
 Lots of good tucker to be had too.  Nanna and Aunty Jan sampling a dumpling with vanilla cream.
 The Rathaus has an amazing ceiling which was recreated after the war at significant cost and contains some spectacular paintings and kilos of gold leaf reliefs.  Sensational.
 Someone drew my attention to the 1/2 m  bratwurst with onions so I had to try it!!
 Also tried some apple wine which was tasty but too alcoholic for Nanna's liking.  Stopped at a nearby beer house on the way home for some schnitzel (veal this time much to Nanna's delight) and then back to the hotel for some rest.





Nanna and Aunty Jan took some time to visit some local non xmas stores.  We also made the mistake of picking a local pub for dinner which turned out to only have one dish on their menu which was slow cooked venison with dumplings. Not very special and relatively expensive however it was worth it to some extent for the waitress's miming "deer" complete with antlers.

Then off to Munich.  As we couldn't check in till 2pm we chose to visit Dachau on the way rather than come back this way.  Nanna and Aunty Jan declined to go in as it was too sad.  Very powerful feelings walking around the grounds.  The "maintenance building" is a museum of the atrocity and they have retained two barracks buildings, the walls, guard towers and the crematorium.  Like the memorial wall says "Never again".





 Creepily the site is occupied by lots of crows.  Very eerie.

Then to the hotel.  In the centre of Munich and near to a nice Irish Pub (go figure but at least I had a schnitzel unlike Nanna - Irish Stew - and Aunty Jan - Sheperds Pie).  The remnants of the old town wall still stand over the area

 and hosts a small xmas market (as the lady at the hotel said "you can go anywhere in Munich and find a christmas market")
Off to the biggest xmas market tomorrow and perhaps the Hofbrau haus, Munich's giant beer house.

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